Special considerations in eye cosmetics
Section snippets
Formulation considerations
Formulation issues are of great importance when applying products to the eyelids and eyelashes. As mentioned previously, the desire to create fashionable eye cosmetics must be balanced with the need to insure that safety issues have been addressed. All eye cosmetics must meet safety standards not only for topical skin application, but also for accidental application in the eye itself. No harm must come to the eye from any colored eyelid or eyelash cosmetic.
Many current eye cosmetics are labeled
Eyelid contact dermatitis
The thin skin of the eyelid is the most susceptible to irritant and allergic contact dermatitis.6, 7 The North American Contact Dermtatitis Group has determined that 12% of cosmetic reactions occur on the eyelid, but only 4% could be linked to eye cosmetic use.8 Furthermore, it may be difficult to determine the etiology of eyelid dermatitis with routine patch testing.9, 10 Therefore, the dermatologist will be consulted frequently regarding problems related to eye cosmetic use. Table 2 lists the
Dermatologic approach to the patient with eyelid dermatitis
Sometimes patients who present initially with difficulty wearing eye cosmetics may have an underlying dermatoses of the eyelid skin. A variety of factors, besides irritant and allergic contact dermatitis, can contribute to difficulty in wearing eyelid cosmetics. This concept has been further developed by Maibach and Engasser, who have characterized the problem as upper eyelid dermatitis syndrome. This syndrome includes the factors listed in Table 4. 14, 15
A systematic approach to gain a better
Eyelid colored cosmetics
The primary colored eyelid cosmetic is eye shadow. Eye shadows are available as pressed powders, anhydrous creams, emulsions, sticks, and pencils. Color variety is extensive, ranging from browns to pinks to purples to blues to greens, but no coal tar derivatives can be used in the eye area as mandated by the United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Only the purified natural colors or inorganic pigments listed in Table 5 can be used in the United States as a result of the Food, Drug,
Eyelid cosmetic removers
A variety of eyelid cosmetic removal products are available for purchase. Waterproof eye shadows require a special removal product containing surfactants, such as cocamidopropyl betaine. These products may be oil-based or oil-free and can be designed to remove all eye cosmetics, including eyeliner and mascara. Unfortunately, they also solubulize the eyelid sebum as well and are a common cause of eyelid xerotic eczema. Allergic contact dermatitis has also been reported to these eye cosmetic
Colored eyelid cosmetic selection for sensitive skin patients and contact lens wearers
Patients with sensitive skin and multiple allergies frequently have difficulty finding an eye shadow product that does not burn or itch upon application. Certainly, any eye shadow applied over broken or inflamed skin will cause discomfort. Patients with these problems should avoid all eye cosmetics until healing has occurred. Next, I shall review eyelid cosmetic selection in these challenging patients.
To minimize recurrence of dermatitis, sensitive skin patients should avoid shiny, frosted, or
Mascara
Mascara, whose application dates to biblical times, is the most commonly used eyelash cosmetic. Its purpose is to darken, thicken, and lengthen the eyelashes. Because the eyelashes form a frame for the eye, luxuriant eyelashes can attract attention to this expressive facial feature. Mascara must be carefully formulated to allow easy and even application without smudging, irritancy, or toxicity. Coal tar colors are prohibited by the US Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act for use on the eyelashes; thus,
Eyelash cosmetics for sensitive patients and/or contact lens wearers
Eyelash cosmetics are commonly a source of irritant or allergic contact dermatitis. Most cases represent irritant dermatitis, because the FDA closely regulates the chemicals, preservatives, and pigments used in eyelash cosmetics. Many sensitive skin patients find mascara extremely irritating to their eyes and should be advised to wear a product specifically designed for allergic patients, or water-based mascara. Unpigmented mascara seems to cause less irritation in some patients.
Application
Conclusions
Eye cosmetics are an important form of adornment for women in modern society. In this discussion, I have covered some of the key special considerations in the selection and use of these cosmetics. Formulation issues and methods of elucidating the cause of problems related to the use of eye cosmetics have been presented. It is hoped that the dermatologist now has new insight into the complexities of cosmetic issues in the eye area.
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