Skip to main content
Erschienen in: Current Dermatology Reports 4/2023

15.08.2023 | REVIEW

The Hoax of Clean Beauty and Associated Allergens

verfasst von: Michael Gui, Donglin Zhang, Jennifer M. Tran, Margo J. Reeder

Erschienen in: Current Dermatology Reports | Ausgabe 4/2023

Einloggen, um Zugang zu erhalten

Abstract

Purpose of Review

‘Clean beauty’ has experienced a notable surge in popularity among consumers. This movement is characterized by the replacement of ‘unsafe’ components with ‘natural’ or clean alternatives in personal care products and cosmetics. This review aims to examine the evidence and expert recommendations surrounding commonly implicated compounds by the clean beauty movement.

Recent Findings

Clean beauty products often contain potential allergens, and despite recent policy changes, there is still no standard definition of clean beauty. Recent studies demonstrated most products marketed as clean contain potential allergens, including fragrances, preservatives, and surfactants.

Summary

Clean beauty advocates often raise concerns about certain cosmetic ingredients, despite no conclusive evidence of harm. Removal of these ingredients by cosmetic manufacturers may inadvertently lead to increased use of other, more allergenic ingredients and play an important role in the prevalence of allergic contact dermatitis, especially to isothiazolinones and alkyl glucosides.
Literatur
16.
Zurück zum Zitat •• Tran JM, Comstock JR, Reeder MJ. Natural Is Not Always Better: The Prevalence of Allergenic Ingredients in “Clean” Beauty Products. Dermatitis. 2022;33(3):215–9. https://doi.org/10.1097/DER.0000000000000863. This study identified the most prevalent allergenic ingredients in 1470 clean beauty products from 2 major retailer websites. Notably, most clean products contained potential allergens, with the most prevalent classes being from fragrances, botanicals, surfactants, and preservatives.CrossRefPubMed •• Tran JM, Comstock JR, Reeder MJ. Natural Is Not Always Better: The Prevalence of Allergenic Ingredients in “Clean” Beauty Products. Dermatitis. 2022;33(3):215–9. https://​doi.​org/​10.​1097/​DER.​0000000000000863​. This study identified the most prevalent allergenic ingredients in 1470 clean beauty products from 2 major retailer websites. Notably, most clean products contained potential allergens, with the most prevalent classes being from fragrances, botanicals, surfactants, and preservatives.CrossRefPubMed
17.
Zurück zum Zitat •• Young PA, Gui H, Bae GH. Prevalence of Contact Allergens in Natural Skin Care Products From US Commercial Retailers. JAMA Dermatol. 2022;158(11):1323–5. https://doi.org/10.1001/JAMADERMATOL.2022.3180. This study characterized the prevalence of contact allergens, defined as ingredients present in the CAMP database, among 1651 natural personal care products. They report nearly all studied products contained at least one potential allergen, with fragrance and preservatives as the most common reported sources.CrossRefPubMedPubMedCentral •• Young PA, Gui H, Bae GH. Prevalence of Contact Allergens in Natural Skin Care Products From US Commercial Retailers. JAMA Dermatol. 2022;158(11):1323–5. https://​doi.​org/​10.​1001/​JAMADERMATOL.​2022.​3180. This study characterized the prevalence of contact allergens, defined as ingredients present in the CAMP database, among 1651 natural personal care products. They report nearly all studied products contained at least one potential allergen, with fragrance and preservatives as the most common reported sources.CrossRefPubMedPubMedCentral
19.
Zurück zum Zitat • Sukakul T, Pruksaeakanan C, Bunyavaree M, Boonchai W. Contact allergens in natural cosmetics-A market survey. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022;21(6):2671–3. https://doi.org/10.1111/JOCD.14411. This markey survey of 5251 cosmetic products labeled as natural or organic in Thailand found most products contained a potential allergen from a list of 197 unspecified patch test allergens.CrossRefPubMed • Sukakul T, Pruksaeakanan C, Bunyavaree M, Boonchai W. Contact allergens in natural cosmetics-A market survey. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022;21(6):2671–3. https://​doi.​org/​10.​1111/​JOCD.​14411. This markey survey of 5251 cosmetic products labeled as natural or organic in Thailand found most products contained a potential allergen from a list of 197 unspecified patch test allergens.CrossRefPubMed
23.
Zurück zum Zitat • Atwater AR, Ward JM, Liu B, et al. Fragrance- and Botanical-Related Allergy and Associated Concomitant Reactions: A Retrospective Analysis of the North American Contact Dermatitis Group Data 2007–2016. Dermatitis. 2021;32(1):42–52. https://doi.org/10.1097/DER.0000000000000661. Large database retrospective analysis of 24,246 patients that evaluated the frequency of concomitant reactions to fragrances and botanical allergens. This study found multiple concomitant concomitant reactions greater than 10%, which suggests cross-reactivity between fragrance and botanical allergens. Notable botanical allergens included Balsam of Peru, propolis, Compositae mix.CrossRefPubMed • Atwater AR, Ward JM, Liu B, et al. Fragrance- and Botanical-Related Allergy and Associated Concomitant Reactions: A Retrospective Analysis of the North American Contact Dermatitis Group Data 2007–2016. Dermatitis. 2021;32(1):42–52. https://​doi.​org/​10.​1097/​DER.​0000000000000661​. Large database retrospective analysis of 24,246 patients that evaluated the frequency of concomitant reactions to fragrances and botanical allergens. This study found multiple concomitant concomitant reactions greater than 10%, which suggests cross-reactivity between fragrance and botanical allergens. Notable botanical allergens included Balsam of Peru, propolis, Compositae mix.CrossRefPubMed
25.
Zurück zum Zitat • Geier J, Schubert S, Reich K, et al. Contact sensitization to essential oils: IVDK data of the years 2010–2019. Contact Dermatitis. 2022;87(1):71–80. https://doi.org/10.1111/COD.14126. Large database retrospective characterizing the frequency of sensitization to essential oils in Europe. The most common positive patch test reactions were to ylang ylang oil, lemongrass oil, and jasmine absolute. This study found that while sensitization to essential oils is generally rare, it is an important cause of contact dermatitis especially with occupational exposure in masseurs and cosmeticians.CrossRefPubMed • Geier J, Schubert S, Reich K, et al. Contact sensitization to essential oils: IVDK data of the years 2010–2019. Contact Dermatitis. 2022;87(1):71–80. https://​doi.​org/​10.​1111/​COD.​14126. Large database retrospective characterizing the frequency of sensitization to essential oils in Europe. The most common positive patch test reactions were to ylang ylang oil, lemongrass oil, and jasmine absolute. This study found that while sensitization to essential oils is generally rare, it is an important cause of contact dermatitis especially with occupational exposure in masseurs and cosmeticians.CrossRefPubMed
28.
Zurück zum Zitat •• DeKoven JG, Warshaw EM, Reeder MJ, et al. North American Contact Dermatitis Group Patch Test Results: 2019–2020. Dermatitis. 2023;34(2). https://doi.org/10.1089/DERM.2022.29017.JDK. This large database study derived from 13 centers in North America publishes the NACDG patch test data from 2019–2020 and illustrates current trends in contact allergen sensitivity. This study illustrates the changing patterns of positive patch test reactions over recent years, including increased sensitivity to isothiazolinones, alkyl glucosides, propolis, fragrance mix, and hydroperoxides of limonene. Additionally, this study characterizes the most common contact sensitizers for the given period with their clinical relevance. •• DeKoven JG, Warshaw EM, Reeder MJ, et al. North American Contact Dermatitis Group Patch Test Results: 2019–2020. Dermatitis. 2023;34(2). https://​doi.​org/​10.​1089/​DERM.​2022.​29017.​JDK. This large database study derived from 13 centers in North America publishes the NACDG patch test data from 2019–2020 and illustrates current trends in contact allergen sensitivity. This study illustrates the changing patterns of positive patch test reactions over recent years, including increased sensitivity to isothiazolinones, alkyl glucosides, propolis, fragrance mix, and hydroperoxides of limonene. Additionally, this study characterizes the most common contact sensitizers for the given period with their clinical relevance.
29.
Zurück zum Zitat •• Atwater AR, Petty AJ, Liu B, et al. Contact dermatitis associated with preservatives: Retrospective analysis of North American Contact Dermatitis Group data, 1994 through 2016. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2021;84(4):965–76. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.JAAD.2020.07.059. This is the first large database study characterizing trends in sensitivity to preservatives listed as contact allergens on the NACDG standard series. Preservatives are an important source of potential allergens in clean beauty products. This study found that between 1994 and 2016, there was a significant increase in PPTR for methylchloroisothiazolinone/methylisothiazolinone. The most common sensitizers were methylisothiazolinone and formaldehyde and formaldehyde releasers. Parabens, benzyl alcohol, and phenoxyethanol had the lowest PPTR of reported preservatives.CrossRefPubMedPubMedCentral •• Atwater AR, Petty AJ, Liu B, et al. Contact dermatitis associated with preservatives: Retrospective analysis of North American Contact Dermatitis Group data, 1994 through 2016. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2021;84(4):965–76. https://​doi.​org/​10.​1016/​J.​JAAD.​2020.​07.​059. This is the first large database study characterizing trends in sensitivity to preservatives listed as contact allergens on the NACDG standard series. Preservatives are an important source of potential allergens in clean beauty products. This study found that between 1994 and 2016, there was a significant increase in PPTR for methylchloroisothiazolinone/methylisothiazolinone. The most common sensitizers were methylisothiazolinone and formaldehyde and formaldehyde releasers. Parabens, benzyl alcohol, and phenoxyethanol had the lowest PPTR of reported preservatives.CrossRefPubMedPubMedCentral
33.
Zurück zum Zitat • Warshaw EM, Xiong M, Atwater AR, et al. Patch testing with glucosides: The North American Contact Dermatitis Group experience, 2009–2018. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2022;87(5):1033–41. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.JAAD.2022.04.058. This was the first large database study characterizing the prevalence of positive patch test reactions to decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, which are often used as anionic surfactants in cosmetics. They report majority of glucoside reactions were currently relevant with the most common exposure being from personal care products. Additionally, there was >43% concomitant reactivity between decyl and lauryl glucoside.CrossRefPubMed • Warshaw EM, Xiong M, Atwater AR, et al. Patch testing with glucosides: The North American Contact Dermatitis Group experience, 2009–2018. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2022;87(5):1033–41. https://​doi.​org/​10.​1016/​J.​JAAD.​2022.​04.​058. This was the first large database study characterizing the prevalence of positive patch test reactions to decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, which are often used as anionic surfactants in cosmetics. They report majority of glucoside reactions were currently relevant with the most common exposure being from personal care products. Additionally, there was >43% concomitant reactivity between decyl and lauryl glucoside.CrossRefPubMed
35.
Zurück zum Zitat • Liszewski W, Zaidi AJ, Fournier E, Scheman A. Review of aluminum, paraben, and sulfate product disclaimers on personal care products. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2022;87(5):1081–6. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.JAAD.2021.06.840. Review of the evidence surrounding aluminums, parabens, and sulfates as used in personal health products. They report no conclusive evidence that these compounds are harmful to human health. They note the avoidance of parabens has coincided with the increased frequency of sensitivity to other preservatives including isothiazolinones.CrossRefPubMed • Liszewski W, Zaidi AJ, Fournier E, Scheman A. Review of aluminum, paraben, and sulfate product disclaimers on personal care products. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2022;87(5):1081–6. https://​doi.​org/​10.​1016/​J.​JAAD.​2021.​06.​840. Review of the evidence surrounding aluminums, parabens, and sulfates as used in personal health products. They report no conclusive evidence that these compounds are harmful to human health. They note the avoidance of parabens has coincided with the increased frequency of sensitivity to other preservatives including isothiazolinones.CrossRefPubMed
48.
Zurück zum Zitat C R-N. I have heard that sodium lauryl sulfate, which is added to many shampoos, may cause cancer. Is this true? Why would a company be allowed to add a harmful substance to such a commonly used product? Harv Womens Health Watch. 1998;6(4):8–8. https://europepmc.org/article/med/9846148. Accessed May 18, 2023. C R-N. I have heard that sodium lauryl sulfate, which is added to many shampoos, may cause cancer. Is this true? Why would a company be allowed to add a harmful substance to such a commonly used product? Harv Womens Health Watch. 1998;6(4):8–8. https://​europepmc.​org/​article/​med/​9846148. Accessed May 18, 2023.
56.
Zurück zum Zitat • Radke EG, Galizia A, Thayer KA, Cooper GS. Phthalate exposure and metabolic effects: a systematic review of the human epidemiological evidence. Environ Int. 2019;132. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.ENVINT.2019.04.040. This systematic review of epidemiologic literature concerning the metabolic effects of phthalate exposure found moderate but inconsistent evidence for DEHP, DBP, DIBP and insulin resistence. For DEP, the only phthalate currently used in cosmetics, there was only slight evidence for adverse metabolic effects from population studies. • Radke EG, Galizia A, Thayer KA, Cooper GS. Phthalate exposure and metabolic effects: a systematic review of the human epidemiological evidence. Environ Int. 2019;132. https://​doi.​org/​10.​1016/​J.​ENVINT.​2019.​04.​040. This systematic review of epidemiologic literature concerning the metabolic effects of phthalate exposure found moderate but inconsistent evidence for DEHP, DBP, DIBP and insulin resistence. For DEP, the only phthalate currently used in cosmetics, there was only slight evidence for adverse metabolic effects from population studies.
62.
Zurück zum Zitat Walker SL, Smith HR, Rycroft RJG, Broome C. Occupational contact dermatitis from headphones containing diethylhexyl phthalate. Contact Dermatitis. 2000;42(3):164–164.PubMed Walker SL, Smith HR, Rycroft RJG, Broome C. Occupational contact dermatitis from headphones containing diethylhexyl phthalate. Contact Dermatitis. 2000;42(3):164–164.PubMed
65.
Zurück zum Zitat • Narla S, Lim HW. Sunscreen: FDA regulation, and environmental and health impact. Photochem Photobiol Sci. 2020;19(1):66–70. https://doi.org/10.1039/C9PP00366E. This review outlined the current FDA regulations for sunscreens, which are regulated as OTC drugs in the US. While there have been concerns surrounding UV filters including as an endocrine disruptor and environmental hazard in in vitro settings, there has been no conclusive evidence that UV filters cause human or environmental harm and levels currently used in sunscrens. Notably, current levels of UV filters in ocean water are thousand-fold lower than levels found to be harmful to coral in vitro.CrossRefPubMed • Narla S, Lim HW. Sunscreen: FDA regulation, and environmental and health impact. Photochem Photobiol Sci. 2020;19(1):66–70. https://​doi.​org/​10.​1039/​C9PP00366E. This review outlined the current FDA regulations for sunscreens, which are regulated as OTC drugs in the US. While there have been concerns surrounding UV filters including as an endocrine disruptor and environmental hazard in in vitro settings, there has been no conclusive evidence that UV filters cause human or environmental harm and levels currently used in sunscrens. Notably, current levels of UV filters in ocean water are thousand-fold lower than levels found to be harmful to coral in vitro.CrossRefPubMed
71.
Zurück zum Zitat • Wilbur Johnson Jr., MS; Jinqiu Zhu Ph.D; Wilma F. Bergfeld, M.D. FACP. DVB, M.D.; Curtis D. Klaassen, Ph.D.; Daniel C. Liebler, Ph.D.; James G. Marks, Jr., M.D.; Lisa A. Peterson, Ph.D.; Ronald C. Shank, Ph.D.; Thomas J. Slaga, Ph.D.; and Paul W. Snyder, D.V.M. P. Amended Safety Assessment of Benzophenones as Used in Cosmetics. 2021. This is the most recent CIR safety assessment of benzophenones, which conculded Benzophenone-1, -2, -3, -4, -5, -6, -8, -9, -10, -11, and -12 are safe as currently used in cosmetics. This safety assessment considers chemistry, toxicokinetics, and potential toxicity of the compounds. • Wilbur Johnson Jr., MS; Jinqiu Zhu Ph.D; Wilma F. Bergfeld, M.D. FACP. DVB, M.D.; Curtis D. Klaassen, Ph.D.; Daniel C. Liebler, Ph.D.; James G. Marks, Jr., M.D.; Lisa A. Peterson, Ph.D.; Ronald C. Shank, Ph.D.; Thomas J. Slaga, Ph.D.; and Paul W. Snyder, D.V.M. P. Amended Safety Assessment of Benzophenones as Used in Cosmetics. 2021. This is the most recent CIR safety assessment of benzophenones, which conculded Benzophenone-1, -2, -3, -4, -5, -6, -8, -9, -10, -11, and -12 are safe as currently used in cosmetics. This safety assessment considers chemistry, toxicokinetics, and potential toxicity of the compounds.
74.
Zurück zum Zitat • Warshaw EM, Xiong M, Belsito D V., et al. Patch Testing With Benzophenone-3 and -4: The North American Contact Dermatitis Group Experience, 2013–2020. Dermatitis. 2023;34(2). https://doi.org/10.1089/DERM.2022.29013.EWA. This large database study characterized positive patch test reaction frequencies to BZP -3 and -4. They report most reactions were clinically relevant, and the prevalence of BZP positivity from 2013–2020 was 2.1%. The most common sources of exposure were sunscreens and other personal care products. • Warshaw EM, Xiong M, Belsito D V., et al. Patch Testing With Benzophenone-3 and -4: The North American Contact Dermatitis Group Experience, 2013–2020. Dermatitis. 2023;34(2). https://​doi.​org/​10.​1089/​DERM.​2022.​29013.​EWA. This large database study characterized positive patch test reaction frequencies to BZP -3 and -4. They report most reactions were clinically relevant, and the prevalence of BZP positivity from 2013–2020 was 2.1%. The most common sources of exposure were sunscreens and other personal care products.
Metadaten
Titel
The Hoax of Clean Beauty and Associated Allergens
verfasst von
Michael Gui
Donglin Zhang
Jennifer M. Tran
Margo J. Reeder
Publikationsdatum
15.08.2023
Verlag
Springer US
Erschienen in
Current Dermatology Reports / Ausgabe 4/2023
Elektronische ISSN: 2162-4933
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1007/s13671-023-00399-4

Weitere Artikel der Ausgabe 4/2023

Current Dermatology Reports 4/2023 Zur Ausgabe

Leitlinien kompakt für die Dermatologie

Mit medbee Pocketcards sicher entscheiden.

Seit 2022 gehört die medbee GmbH zum Springer Medizin Verlag

Riesenzellarteriitis: 15% der Patienten sind von okkulter Form betroffen

16.05.2024 Riesenzellarteriitis Nachrichten

In einer retrospektiven Untersuchung haben Forschende aus Belgien und den Niederlanden die okkulte Form der Riesenzellarteriitis genauer unter die Lupe genommen. In puncto Therapie und Rezidivraten stellten sie keinen sehr großen Unterschied zu Erkrankten mit kranialen Symptomen fest.

Betalaktam-Allergie: praxisnahes Vorgehen beim Delabeling

16.05.2024 Pädiatrische Allergologie Nachrichten

Die große Mehrheit der vermeintlichen Penicillinallergien sind keine. Da das „Etikett“ Betalaktam-Allergie oft schon in der Kindheit erworben wird, kann ein frühzeitiges Delabeling lebenslange Vorteile bringen. Ein Team von Pädiaterinnen und Pädiatern aus Kanada stellt vor, wie sie dabei vorgehen.

Isotretinoin: Risiko für schwere Laboranomalien „marginal erhöht“

08.05.2024 Akne Nachrichten

Die Aknetherapie mit Isotretinoin kann einen Anstieg von Leberenzymen und Blutfetten verursachen. Das Risiko für schwere Störungen ist laut einer Forschungsgruppe der Universität Lübeck aber nur marginal erhöht und auf einen engen Zeitraum konzentriert.

Darf man die Behandlung eines Neonazis ablehnen?

08.05.2024 Gesellschaft Nachrichten

In einer Leseranfrage in der Zeitschrift Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology möchte ein anonymer Dermatologe bzw. eine anonyme Dermatologin wissen, ob er oder sie einen Patienten behandeln muss, der eine rassistische Tätowierung trägt.

Update Dermatologie

Bestellen Sie unseren Fach-Newsletter und bleiben Sie gut informiert.